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A black and white photograph lends a timeless quality to its subject. Even though a single moment is captured, a story is told about a person, a place or a time. The photographs of Buenos Aires tell a story about a passion for living. The people are proud of their traditions, their history and their culture and hold these high above the need to join the ever-increasing speed of the rest of the world. The Argentinian people are survivors of past political and economic turmoil and the current situation does nothing to darken their spirit or lust for life. In the streets you can often find people protesting the current government or promoting another. Walls are painted with spectacular political graffiti and the cafés, bars and restaurants remain full.
My desire was to capture a small slice of life in Buenos Aires and show how this passion for life is as strong now as it has ever been. More than to simply document this urban culture, I wanted to participate, from staying out until 8am with newfound friends to taking an hour of class at the National Academy of Tango and spending three hours afterwards socializing with the other students in the Cafe Tortoni just downstairs.
Click on any photo below to view a larger version or click the links above for a slide show of images in black and white or color.
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The Tango
Nothing demonstrates the passion of the Argentine people more than the tango. This sultry and methodical interaction is a captivating romance for the dancers and a love affair for the eyes of any witness. |
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The Market in San Telmo
The antique market in Barrio San Telmo is packed with people from all over the world. Shopper’s heaven or tourist nightmare? It depends on your point of view and level of intoxication. If the excellent beer or rich coffee from the surrounding cafes don’t enlighten you then the tango in the streets will. |
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Freddo
Argentina is second only to Denmark in the consumption of ice cream. With parlors on almost every corner and exotic flavors that simply can’t be translated into English, it’s easy to become an addict. |
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Cafe Tortoni
Just downstairs from the Nacional Academy of Tango on Avenida de Mayo lies the crowded and colorful Cafe Tortoni. Victor is the tango teacher from the Academy. He is not the type of man to have a woman simply as a friend. He teaches tango the way an old-school Argentinian with 70 years of experience should, by spending the first two minutes showing the men what to do and the rest of the class dancing with all the pretty young girls. |
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La Parilla
There aren’t many vegetarians in Argentina. In a country famous for its beef, la parilla (pronounced lah pah-ree-ya) or “the grill” is taken almost as seriously as soccer. The practice of grilling whole animals in the front window of the restaurant is, I believe, not just to show the available menu but to demonstrate national pride in a sacred Argentinian industry. |
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Avenida 9 de Julio
Facades old and new line the widest avenue in the world (130m) showing a progression in architectural styles from the classic to the ultra-modern. This image of Natalie Imbruglia stares out over the street late at night like a scene from George Orwell’s 1984 or Terry Gilliam’s movie Brazil. |
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Graffiti
The graffiti in Buenos Aires describes gangs of a political nature. In a country known for political upheavals, it isn’t surprising to see protests or rallies at any time of the day or night. |
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Rio de la Plata |
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Modern Architecture
The old and the new side by side. It’s not unusual to see an antique baroque structure sandwiched between two 60’s era ultra-modern apartment buildings. Perhaps building codes set a height restriction that nothing could be taller than the top of the church spire. |
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The Recoleta Cemetery
Established in 1822, the Recoleta Cemetery extends for numerous city blocks and is the final resting place of the Argentine elite including many polical leaders. It is also the current resting place of Evita Peron. |
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Cats in the Cemetery |
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Tombs of the Recoleta |
